Just came back from the honda dealer .went for some info and got him to admid he never done the valve clearance on a cb1r not because he cant but because he said the last 5years its never been nescesary at 1000cc hondas they check them at 48000 but even then 99% is stil good so keep in mind that if your dealer did this at 12-24k he ripped you off .hondas own words
Czb1000r
..anyone else skipped it and not had any issues ? - valve issues seem rare here but interesting to know if that's just because everyone services * checks them, or whether the reliability is common even to those that don't bother ?
Skip me!
It's shim under bucket. Unless other high mileage bikes start burning valves, I'm NEVER adjusting mine and I can do it myself for free. The problem is that it's a huge pain in the ass to do properly and if any need adjusted, after doing the math, you have to wait for whatever size shims you need to be ordered.
It's shim under bucket. Unless other high mileage bikes start burning valves, I'm NEVER adjusting mine and I can do it myself for free. The problem is that it's a huge pain in the ass to do properly and if any need adjusted, after doing the math, you have to wait for whatever size shims you need to be ordered.
Had my cb checked when I bought it and it was fine so no adjustment necessary, same with my Blade.
Get the feeling the 16k service is a license to print money.
Get the feeling the 16k service is a license to print money.
Checked my valves today @ 16,000 miles: 2 x inlet valves are slightly outside of tolerance; all 8 inlet valves are on the tolerance limit and 1 inlet valve is on the tolerance limit. All the spark plugs are good and the same colour, so I won't adjust any valves this time, but at 32,000 miles I will be looking to change some of the shims.
Only bucket and shim bike I've known have an issue with not having valve clearances checked was the FZ750 I mentioned that I rode on the IOM. This bike was quite high mileage and they had never been checked as far as the owner knew. The bike would start fine when cold but not when hot. It would always bump start. Power was good hot or cold and ran spot on so remained a mystery for a while. Eventually the 20 valve (5 per cylinder 
) head was checked for clearances and then all became obvious. The expansion of the head casting offered enough differential rate to everything else to push the valve slightly off its seat when hot. No long term issues with a new shim set in place.
Bucket and shim is pretty much fit and forget!
) head was checked for clearances and then all became obvious. The expansion of the head casting offered enough differential rate to everything else to push the valve slightly off its seat when hot. No long term issues with a new shim set in place.Bucket and shim is pretty much fit and forget!
My dad checked his last winter on his vfr 750 and they were not worth doing even after 66,000 and 14 years. My cb has done 20,000 miles so I ll leave mine a bit longer yet. My mate had them done on his zx 10 at 18,000 and it cost him a fair bit of dosh, I think its just a way of manufactures to cover their backs.
Honda suggests valve clearance checks at 24,000 km intervals. I did mine as part of a major service at that mileage cuz that that was just under one year and I wanted to make sure there were not any problems that I ought to catch while still under warranty. the clearances were still OK, altho just, and the shims were a little 'beaten', so the mechanic replaced them. yah, I probably got ripped off a bit...
a year later, the bike is at 63,000 kms, and I've done the major service and valve check again... ...and clearances are fine. I'll go to 120,000 before I check again!
this is SUCH a fine engine!
a year later, the bike is at 63,000 kms, and I've done the major service and valve check again... ...and clearances are fine. I'll go to 120,000 before I check again!
this is SUCH a fine engine!
It's such a fine engine it's worth looking after . The gearbox is nice and slick. It's probably got the best gearbox out of all my Hondas . I plan to have dealer check the valves at 32,000 miles (51,200 kms) and replace the iridium spark plugs the same time.
. The gearbox is nice and slick. It's probably got the best gearbox out of all my Hondas . I plan to have dealer check the valves at 32,000 miles (51,200 kms) and replace the iridium spark plugs the same time.
I never do enough miles on a bike to worry about it before selling on. If I did though it would be a case of check for tappety noise indicating clearance too large then run a compression check hot to make sure no valves off seat.Gotta be easier than stripdown.
rear chain adjustment has nothing to do with the transmission jumping out. Deluth's comment , suggestion to adjust the shifter to a different position, is correct.
What happens when the trans "jumps out", is the force of power is pushing against the dogs, which usually are engaged, and the spring loaded drum is held in position, isn't in place.
If the transmission is not engaged fully, the power, pushed the dogs out of the engagement, with time, repeatedly letting this happen, 'rounds off' the corners of the dogs, and prematurely wears the gears dogs.
Then, instead of having flats on the dogs to transfer power, the dogs are now rounded, and do not want to fully engage.
If when shifting, you find you shift twice, and it stays in the same gear, on the second shift, this is telling you the last gear wasn't engaged fully, not allowing the next to engage.
This if often caused by the rider.
Since the transmission is constant mesh, it will withstand strong force in shifts easily, and should be shifted with forceful shifts.
A shifter lever, not adjusted, or a lazy foot, not moving all the way, is easily adjusted.
Using tennis shoes, sandals, or sunday shoes with riding, "Shifting hurts my foot", is also a recipe for ruining the transmission.
The stock transmission, will handle strong shifting. Few ever fully understand this, and its common to hear "my bike pops out of gear".
comments like this, indicate, the rider isn't shifting into the next gear fully. Baby'ing the shifts, either because of misunderstanding the force needed to shift properly, or timidly trying to "be nice" to the transmission.
both are incorrect and improper techniques when shifting a constant mesh transmission.
As Deluth mentioned, adjusting the lever down, so as to have more force on the upshift, and or, using a strong foot movement when shifting, will make for good shifts.
Also, using the clutch to fully disengage the power to allow full movement of the transmission movement, only takes a fraction of a second,
but like the foot movement, this needs to done quickly, forcefully, and in synchronization, together.
When I read, about the masses who replace the stock fully long lever, with a shorty, seldom do they then use the clutch fully.
This is asking for disaster.
Once the transmission has "popped out of gear" a dozen or so times, or "it only happens in one gear", its already too late. the dogs are toast. Transmission rebuild time.
Rowing the box when new, can help "break in" a new transmission.
When I mentioned this in previous posts, I was mocked for this concept.
The drive chain, slack or tight, has no effect on transmission shifts. Its your foot movement to forcefully put the trans fully into the next gear, your hand movement to dis-engage the clutch allowing this to happen, and not doing this is basically not knowing how to shift. And that's a fact Jack. ...cue Mr. Nice...
What happens when the trans "jumps out", is the force of power is pushing against the dogs, which usually are engaged, and the spring loaded drum is held in position, isn't in place.
If the transmission is not engaged fully, the power, pushed the dogs out of the engagement, with time, repeatedly letting this happen, 'rounds off' the corners of the dogs, and prematurely wears the gears dogs.
Then, instead of having flats on the dogs to transfer power, the dogs are now rounded, and do not want to fully engage.
If when shifting, you find you shift twice, and it stays in the same gear, on the second shift, this is telling you the last gear wasn't engaged fully, not allowing the next to engage.
This if often caused by the rider.
Since the transmission is constant mesh, it will withstand strong force in shifts easily, and should be shifted with forceful shifts.
A shifter lever, not adjusted, or a lazy foot, not moving all the way, is easily adjusted.
Using tennis shoes, sandals, or sunday shoes with riding, "Shifting hurts my foot", is also a recipe for ruining the transmission.
The stock transmission, will handle strong shifting. Few ever fully understand this, and its common to hear "my bike pops out of gear".
comments like this, indicate, the rider isn't shifting into the next gear fully. Baby'ing the shifts, either because of misunderstanding the force needed to shift properly, or timidly trying to "be nice" to the transmission.
both are incorrect and improper techniques when shifting a constant mesh transmission.
As Deluth mentioned, adjusting the lever down, so as to have more force on the upshift, and or, using a strong foot movement when shifting, will make for good shifts.
Also, using the clutch to fully disengage the power to allow full movement of the transmission movement, only takes a fraction of a second,
but like the foot movement, this needs to done quickly, forcefully, and in synchronization, together.
When I read, about the masses who replace the stock fully long lever, with a shorty, seldom do they then use the clutch fully.
This is asking for disaster.
Once the transmission has "popped out of gear" a dozen or so times, or "it only happens in one gear", its already too late. the dogs are toast. Transmission rebuild time.
Rowing the box when new, can help "break in" a new transmission.
When I mentioned this in previous posts, I was mocked for this concept.
The drive chain, slack or tight, has no effect on transmission shifts. Its your foot movement to forcefully put the trans fully into the next gear, your hand movement to dis-engage the clutch allowing this to happen, and not doing this is basically not knowing how to shift. And that's a fact Jack. ...cue Mr. Nice...
Man, you are really detail oriented, aren't you? :respekt
I'm curious what exactly you mean by "rowing the box". Clutch-less shifting?
I'm curious what exactly you mean by "rowing the box". Clutch-less shifting?
Got to agree with a few details on Suzukijo's post.
The ONLY time I have any issues with the gearbox is when I have my six year old on board. The reasons are basically;
1/ trying to ride too soft and smooth..... inadequate force (brutality) with gear lever
2/ to accommodate him so that he is "trapped" within the gap between my backside and the step up to the passenger spot I have to sit right up to the tank. This inevitably puts my toes at the wrong angle as I am sat so far forward.
For the few miles I do with him around home I can put up with this although naturally I do try to make a conscious effort. Fourth gear is the one that seems to specifically need a more brutal change.
As Oldone said however a slack chain will not cause missed gears but will certainly not help smooth changes.
The ONLY time I have any issues with the gearbox is when I have my six year old on board. The reasons are basically;
1/ trying to ride too soft and smooth..... inadequate force (brutality) with gear lever
2/ to accommodate him so that he is "trapped" within the gap between my backside and the step up to the passenger spot I have to sit right up to the tank. This inevitably puts my toes at the wrong angle as I am sat so far forward.
For the few miles I do with him around home I can put up with this although naturally I do try to make a conscious effort. Fourth gear is the one that seems to specifically need a more brutal change.
As Oldone said however a slack chain will not cause missed gears but will certainly not help smooth changes.
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