jon.f
thank you Jon for posting this, which I could not do myself.
many people have posted threads about attaching a top-box at the rear seat position on the CB1000R. in the 'early days', folk just drilled straight thru the rear seat and bolted on a Givi plate, or whatever. this is simple and effective, but not 'elegant'. the availability of the Shad Sport Rack ( their part nr H0CB11CL) provided the 'cool' solution, but there remained a problem: the OEM Honda rear seat latch plate is quite thin and has narrow 'spans' of metal from internal holes to outside edges, and there have been reports of breakage. it seems the 'dead' load of the luggage is more stressful on the latch plate than carrying a passenger.
quickly, people realized you should reinforce the latch plate, and postings appeared. these all relied on 'simple' construction, and since both the OEM seat and the Shad rack have 'bumpers' and/or 'lobes' on the bottom, these needed to be filed off. I hate modifying OEM parts if I can avoid it, so I attempted to build a plate which did the necessary reinforcing but which also accommodated the seat and rack without modification. this necessitated a number of interior holes to give clearance for the 'bumpers' and 'lobes'. the lesson of the breakage also was that narrow sections of metal are weak points, so my objective was to maximize the width of the metal external to any interior holes. but this is limited by ribs on the bottom of the seat, 'bumpers' on the Shad plate, an upturn on the latch assembly, and the bodywork of the bike. so it took me 3 attempts to get to the 'right' solution. I posted details here:
http://www.hondacb1000r.com/forums/modification/12029-latch-plate-reinforcement-mk3.html
since then, I've had a few PMs about the plate. I sent an 'early' version to one member, and some 'advice' to others. however, I work in a land survey office and use AutoCAD, so when I recently got a PM about the plate from phillyboy, I thought " why am I being so frikkin lazy? use the skills, and DO a template!" so I did...
a couple words of advice/ context:
one PDF is strictly dimensional; the second includes the scan of the part itself X-Ref’d in back. I wasn’t sure which I liked better, and/or which was easiest to use, so I did ‘em both ways.
both are designed to be printed on an 8 1/2” x 11” Nor Am letter sheet. for Euro sheets, some sort of scaling will be necessary. if you’re using the PDF as a direct template, the scale bar will tell you if you’re at correct sizing. if your print does not measure 100mm, adjust the scale of the print job from Adobe to get it correct.
the various radii on the small corners don’t really matter. actually, neither do the bigger external ones, not much – they’re mostly just there to make smooth transitions. but the main bolt holes and major longitudinal elements all have a purpose, with some tight clearances involved (ribs on the bottom of the seat, the flange on the latch itself, rubber bumpers on the Shad Plate, etc). when installing, you might find tight fits here and there; if so, just attack them with your file! (it’s actually better to make the piece a touch oversized and to file it down, so as to preserve as much metal as possible external to the interior holes for maximum strength...)
it’s an easy job with just a hacksaw, a drill, and a file. a vise eases the job but isn’t strictly necessary. and the beauty of this piece is that no mods are necessary to either the Shad Sport Plate or the seat.
yours for better luggage capacity...
cheers, Don
many people have posted threads about attaching a top-box at the rear seat position on the CB1000R. in the 'early days', folk just drilled straight thru the rear seat and bolted on a Givi plate, or whatever. this is simple and effective, but not 'elegant'. the availability of the Shad Sport Rack ( their part nr H0CB11CL) provided the 'cool' solution, but there remained a problem: the OEM Honda rear seat latch plate is quite thin and has narrow 'spans' of metal from internal holes to outside edges, and there have been reports of breakage. it seems the 'dead' load of the luggage is more stressful on the latch plate than carrying a passenger.
quickly, people realized you should reinforce the latch plate, and postings appeared. these all relied on 'simple' construction, and since both the OEM seat and the Shad rack have 'bumpers' and/or 'lobes' on the bottom, these needed to be filed off. I hate modifying OEM parts if I can avoid it, so I attempted to build a plate which did the necessary reinforcing but which also accommodated the seat and rack without modification. this necessitated a number of interior holes to give clearance for the 'bumpers' and 'lobes'. the lesson of the breakage also was that narrow sections of metal are weak points, so my objective was to maximize the width of the metal external to any interior holes. but this is limited by ribs on the bottom of the seat, 'bumpers' on the Shad plate, an upturn on the latch assembly, and the bodywork of the bike. so it took me 3 attempts to get to the 'right' solution. I posted details here:
http://www.hondacb1000r.com/forums/modification/12029-latch-plate-reinforcement-mk3.html
since then, I've had a few PMs about the plate. I sent an 'early' version to one member, and some 'advice' to others. however, I work in a land survey office and use AutoCAD, so when I recently got a PM about the plate from phillyboy, I thought " why am I being so frikkin lazy? use the skills, and DO a template!" so I did...
a couple words of advice/ context:
one PDF is strictly dimensional; the second includes the scan of the part itself X-Ref’d in back. I wasn’t sure which I liked better, and/or which was easiest to use, so I did ‘em both ways.
both are designed to be printed on an 8 1/2” x 11” Nor Am letter sheet. for Euro sheets, some sort of scaling will be necessary. if you’re using the PDF as a direct template, the scale bar will tell you if you’re at correct sizing. if your print does not measure 100mm, adjust the scale of the print job from Adobe to get it correct.
the various radii on the small corners don’t really matter. actually, neither do the bigger external ones, not much – they’re mostly just there to make smooth transitions. but the main bolt holes and major longitudinal elements all have a purpose, with some tight clearances involved (ribs on the bottom of the seat, the flange on the latch itself, rubber bumpers on the Shad Plate, etc). when installing, you might find tight fits here and there; if so, just attack them with your file! (it’s actually better to make the piece a touch oversized and to file it down, so as to preserve as much metal as possible external to the interior holes for maximum strength...)
it’s an easy job with just a hacksaw, a drill, and a file. a vise eases the job but isn’t strictly necessary. and the beauty of this piece is that no mods are necessary to either the Shad Sport Plate or the seat.
yours for better luggage capacity...
cheers, Don
Reviving this thread to share my experience and highly recommend to everyone that you make a plate for your bike if you plan to run a Shad or modded pillion seat setup.
I bought the Shad sport rack and a Shad 45 from a forum member last year. I didn't have any plans on using it anytime soon, so it got put in storage where I forgot about it. Last week we went on a trip where we knew we were going to get rained on and decided to use the Shad setup instead of backpacks. I realized I hadn't ever built a reinforcement plate for the latch and decided to risk it since I was short on time. Guess what happened...
To be fair, I had the 45L box very heavily loaded, but the latch was broken before the trip was even half over. Oh, well. At least the replacement part is only 9 dollars.
I spent some time today making a plate per Don's design out of some 3mm aluminum I cut from a scrap car bumper. Piece of piss, as the Brits say, thanks to Don's schematic. Maybe next trip won't result in a broken bike.
Thanks for sharing your design, buddy!
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I bought the Shad sport rack and a Shad 45 from a forum member last year. I didn't have any plans on using it anytime soon, so it got put in storage where I forgot about it. Last week we went on a trip where we knew we were going to get rained on and decided to use the Shad setup instead of backpacks. I realized I hadn't ever built a reinforcement plate for the latch and decided to risk it since I was short on time. Guess what happened...
To be fair, I had the 45L box very heavily loaded, but the latch was broken before the trip was even half over. Oh, well. At least the replacement part is only 9 dollars.
I spent some time today making a plate per Don's design out of some 3mm aluminum I cut from a scrap car bumper. Piece of piss, as the Brits say, thanks to Don's schematic. Maybe next trip won't result in a broken bike.
Thanks for sharing your design, buddy!
Just want to thank you for the very nicely detailed .pdf of the reinforcement plate. I'm planning to make one of these very soon, but I'm going to use it to mount a 40L Hepco & Becker top case, not a Shad case. To that end, I'm wondering if anyone can provide me the diameter (or radius) of the standoffs on the bottom of the mounting plate so i can compare them to the ones on the H&B plate. If mine are bigger that the ones on the Shad plate, I may have to modify the drawing to accommodate larger standoff feet, as shown circled in yellow on the attachment. TIA
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Bill in Yardley, PA
Bill in Yardley, PA
you could use plasti-guage or something similar and assemble the parts, then get the correct position and size from the impression which it leaves.
*hijack*
Speaking of Shad plate ... I have not tried it yet. But it looks like there is a slim chance the plate that fits the old model could work on the new model. I won't be able to try it out for a couple of days ........... watch this space. Or some other more relevant space.
Speaking of Shad plate ... I have not tried it yet. But it looks like there is a slim chance the plate that fits the old model could work on the new model. I won't be able to try it out for a couple of days ........... watch this space. Or some other more relevant space.
@wkdenton
The drawing has very detailed measurements. I would measure the H&B standoffs, compare to the measurements on the drawing, and alter those dimensions as needed.
The drawing has very detailed measurements. I would measure the H&B standoffs, compare to the measurements on the drawing, and alter those dimensions as needed.
Keenly watching!
Was considering buying a pillion seat to convert to a base for a smallish bag for work clothes, or tank bag for day rides
Was considering buying a pillion seat to convert to a base for a smallish bag for work clothes, or tank bag for day rides
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