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It might not be the best social service I've ever done, but for those of you who put off checking your valves on the 2008-2017 CB1000R, you probably aren't risking too much.

I just had mine done, at 37,000 kms.
Spec is intake = 0.16mm +- 0.03; exhaust = 0.32mm +- 0.03.
Mine presented with intake: 2 @ 0.17mm, 2 @ 0.16mm; exhaust 2 @ 0.33mm, 2 @ 0.32mm.

Move along, folks. Nothing to see here...
 

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Heh. I had the valve clearances on my CB1300S checked at 100,000 Km. All were fine.

That bike ran better when I sold it at 120,000+ km than when I bought it at 36,000. I'm confident my 2018 CB1000R will last the distance.
 

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Don't think I'll bother with mine either, 40k miles and quite as ever. My Dad checked his on his vfr at 70k and they were perfect. Biggest con going especially on Honda
 

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40k miles and quite as ever.

Nah, you wouldn't hear anything. Valve adjustments are not done on Hondas for loose valves. The valves can lose clearance over time because of seat/valve wear or the seat receding into the head. They get tighter and quieter, not looser and noisier. If they get tight enough, you start to get misfires. If you let that go long enough, it can eventually melt the valve and/or seat.

The interval that Honda recommends is bananas, though. I wouldn't even bother checking until 100k unless it has had an extremely hard life.
 

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Yeah, I wasn't calling you out or anything, bro. It's just a common misconception I like to educate folks on.

If the valve train gets noisy, there is usually metal wear somewhere like the cam and/or bucket, so an adjustment isn't the correct repair in most noise situations. There are exceptions to everything, but that is the norm.

I've heard a lot of technicians over the years say that if they aren't noisy that they don't need adjusted and it's just not reality in Honda land. I've fixed dozens of engines with tight or burnt valves because they were never adjusted. These are high mileage auto engines I'm talking about, 150k plus miles. Of course, none of the valvetrains on the automotive side are shim-under-bucket, but the reason for checking adjustment is the same. Tight clearance causes running issues, especially at cold start, because the tight valve is actually leaking a little bit of combustion gas. The hot gasses shooting through that tiny gap act like a torch and will eventually melt a spot on the edge of the valve where it seals. Now you have a dead miss and a very expensive repair!

The valves slam closed unbelievably fast and hard at high rpm. It's nothing short of amazing that they manage to hold the same clearance for so long.

None of this will matter in 40 years when petrol vehicles will be banned and our kids will all be riding around in electric Wall-E chairs with their eyes glued to a screen.
 
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