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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all

what’s been your experience with the traction control settings? I can’t find any info on exactly how levels 1,2,3 effect the bike in a concrete way. What’s your experience been?
 

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Ya I know. My question is exactly how the 3 levels of traction control affect the performance of the bike.
So in in Sport mode:
Full engine power
Minimal wheelie/torque control

You'll have full acceleration unless you get wheel lift or wheel spin, then the ECU intervenes and dials back the torque until the wheels are in sync again as far as identical speed.

If you put it in User mode you can set it to full power, pull the T trigger and turn off torque control. If you get wheel lift or spin you'll have to use throttle or rear brake to "set it straight"
 

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Now if you reduce power, you won't have to worry about wheel lift or wheel spin
 

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You could try full power and Maximum Torque Control. If you power up a wheelie it won't lift very high or long.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So in in Sport mode:
Full engine power
Minimal wheelie/torque control

You'll have full acceleration unless you get wheel lift or wheel spin, then the ECU intervenes and dials back the torque until the wheels are in sync again as far as identical speed.

If you put it in User mode you can set it to full power, pull the T trigger and turn off torque control. If you get wheel lift or spin you'll have to use throttle or rear brake to "set it straight"
Ok sport mode has tc on level 1. So that allows for some wheel lift but won’t let you over do it. What would tc 2 and 3 do? I assume 3 would be to not allow the rear to spin at all or the front to lift.

I’m just kind of curious to see how it all works out in real life. I also am sorta afraid to push it to find out and get in over my head
 

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Ok sport mode has tc on level 1. So that allows for some wheel lift but won’t let you over do it. What would tc 2 and 3 do? I assume 3 would be to not allow the rear to spin at all or the front to lift.
You can get pretty good wheel lift in sport mode at full throttle in 1st gear. If you keep it pinned the front wheel will still drop. The more T control the less time the front wheel spends in the air.

The rear wheel can always spin on a slick or dirty surface. Before the bike takes any action it has to sense a difference in speed between the front and rear wheels. It just reacts quicker to intervene the higher you set T control.

If you reduce Power setting on a good surface, traction control won't have a reason to intervene.
 

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This bike doesn't have any type of gyro feature that senses what relative axis the bike is in. It only knows the front wheel is in the air because the front wheel eventually slows down and it compares front wheel speed to rear wheel speed.

It only knows the rear wheel is spinning up when it rotates faster than the front.
 

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Thank you for the explanation. I have yet to read up on the different modes in the manual.
 

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level 1: relaxed intervention + you can wheelie
level 2: more intervention, no wheelie <-- saved my life when i was WOT and crossed a wet patch.
level 3: ...
 

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On my very first ride with the bike we came back to my buddies place and there is a gravel road you have to go on to get there. I was in rain mode (TC on high) and I hadn't noticed that I had the throttle too high until I saw the TC light flashing. The wheel wasn't spitting any gravel and I could have ridden around like that for a while without even realizing the TC was active.
I now have about 2,500 miles on the bike and am more comfortable with it. What I notice when in sport (TC on low) is that if I were to give it full throttle from a rolling start, the TC light will start flashing when I hit somewhere between 5&6K rpms, and the front tire will just bounce along the ground. On the other hand, I am trying to learn to do wheelies as I have never really done them. What I can do is leave it in sport mode, and run the bike up to around 6K and the pop the throttle which will not activate the TC and the wheel will come right up. Since I don't really know how to do wheelies yet, I end up "riding them out", but during that time the TC doesn't come on at all.
You can also go into user mode and then totally disable the TC if you want.
 

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I end up "riding them out", but during that time the TC doesn't come on at all.
If you're "riding it out" with no TC intervention then the front wheel hasn't slowed down enough for wheelie control to intervene. Hit the front brake when you get wheel lift and see what happens.
 

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If you're "riding it out" with no TC intervention then the front wheel hasn't slowed down enough for wheelie control to intervene. Hit the front brake when you get wheel lift and see what happens.
Well, I have thought about that and my conclusion is this: For bikes like this that do not have fork limit switches or gyros, the TC kicks in when the differential between the front and rear tires is over some amount. In this case I am accelerating and by the time I am done the rear wheel is going about 50% faster than the front tire as my RPM's will go from 6K - 10K. That is a pretty significant difference. What I will say is that I don't believe it is solely controlled by the wheel differential as if I start from and idle and just fully jump on the throttle the TC will start flashing and my wheel will never really get off the ground very much.
It is a bit of a mystery for me as to what things the controller bases it's decision on and I would love to know more.
 

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It is a bit of a mystery for me as to what things the controller bases it's decision on and I would love to know more.
On the NSC and SC77 it's based on difference in wheel speeds. The TC might flash from idle because the back wheel is spinning up (losing traction) before the front wheel gets off the ground.
 
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