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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed the rear rotor needs replacing so I attempted to remove the rear axle. Managed to get the axle nut off but can't figure out how the sprocket hub assembly comes off. The collar and dust seal are out and I can see the bearing inside the hub. Tried pulling on the hub and wedging it forward but no luck.

Ordered a Haynes manual about a month ago but still waiting on it to arrive. Anyone have advice on how to remove the sprocket hub? Does it just slide off or is there something else I'm missing?

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the diagram and photos. With those 4 bolts out the disk becomes free but is not able to be removed because the disk hole is smaller than the end of the axle. To remove the disk the entire axle must come out of the hub.

It doesn't look like anything else is holding the sprocket hub in place so I'm thinking it should just slide off.
 

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Matt, the steps from the Service Manual are: 1. remove nut cap; 2. unstake rear axle nut; 3. remove nut and cone washer; (4. remove rear wheel); 5. loosen pinch bolt, loosen drive chain; 6. remove 'air guide' ( i.e., shark fin); 7. derail chain; 8. remove driven flange assembly ( i.e. sprocket and flange); 9. remove caliper bolts, remove caliper; 10: THE MONEY! - remove rear axle /brake disk assembly. as you said, it sounds like it should just slide out... not that I've done the job myself...

here's a schematic, maybe a little more helpful than the parts fiche layout?

rear axle assembly by Don Serl, on Flickr
 

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Thanks for providing the steps doser! The flange assembly doesn't want to move so I'll try prying it foward. Once that's off I'm thinking the axle should slide out easily.
 

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It's going to be stuck on the drive flange or eccentric I'm guessing. Thread the nut on until it is flush with the shaft. Place a 2x4 over the end of the axle and smack it with a hammer.
 

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Don was trying to be funny (I did :laugh), but he's actually speaking truth.

It's often worse to go pecking away with a small hammer than to use a bigger one because it will just be peening over the metal where the hammer hits instead of moving the part, although it won't really matter if you are protecting the part with a soft material like wood.

Whatever you do, keep those fine threads protected. The axle nut and block of wood will do that nicely. If you goof up the threads, a new axle is $200.


eta:

This is what I would consider the right tool for the job, not kidding. Start light and increase force as needed.

download (1).jpg
 

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just thinking out loud here, but would it help to play lightly with a propane torch on the drive flange, just enough to get it to 'barely possible to touch' temperature - no hotter, cuz there are rubber cush pads inside, not to mention a bearing. then stuff the axle with crushed ice, wait a couple minutes and whack it...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Great advice guys! Whacked it a few times with a hammer but it wouldn't budge at first. Sprayed some liquid wrench on there and it finally came free. 20200516_132521.jpg
 

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:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap
 

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super-Matt to the rescue! well done.
(nice looking hammer, there, btw. just the tool for the job! I can see from the indentations on the board it took a bit of persuading...)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It was stuck in there pretty good! Made sure to grease it up before reinstalling in case I ever need to get it out again. The Haynes manual showed up the next day...
 
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