Hi y’all- i currently have a sc project s1 slip on on my cb, just ordered the titanium headers.
i will be running the bike with the dB killer in- is a power commander necessary?
also, i ordered an aftermarket air filter (standard, not race). I’m wondering if this will change the answer to my first question. If i don’t need a power commander then i won’t buy one- i just want to prevent unnecessary wear on the engine.
Thanks
If the titanium headers you speak of lack the cat converter... then yes it would be highly recommended that you get a PC and a custom map.
You could also check out a Rapid Bike module. It's similar to a Power Commander, but it constantly adjusts itself. It's about $200 USD more expensive, but no custom map is necessary; any changes you make to the exhaust system now and in the future will be automatically accounted for... so adding or removing stuff later on will "just work" as well.
If the titanium headers you speak of lack the cat converter... then yes it would be highly recommended that you get a PC and a custom map.
You could also check out a Rapid Bike module. It's similar to a Power Commander, but it constantly adjusts itself. It's about $200 USD more expensive, but no custom map is necessary; any changes you make to the exhaust system now and in the future will be automatically accounted for... so adding or removing stuff later on will "just work" as well.
Awesome thank you for the info and recommendation.
Yeah I’m pretty sure they’re straight headers, no cat whatsoever. They do allow however for the stock o2 sensor to plug right in (unless that’s what you’re referring to when you say cat converter? Not positive myself)
"Cat converter" is just slang/shorthand for catalytic converter. It's a means to control emissions and is typically illegal to remove on road vehicles (no worries on track/race bikes), but YMMV based on local enforcement, etc. I've done it on bikes in the past with no issues, but you never know!
The O2 sensors are different from the catalytic converter. They basically detect the oxygen levels which helps maintain a proper air/fuel ratio... sounds like you don't need that explained though. 😁
Another option would be to have the stock ECU flashed. Then no piggy back module, such as Power Commander, etc, is necessary. I generally don't like going down that path as if I ever happen to sell the bike, everything can be removed and stock parts can be reinstalled without any extra tuning or de-tuning necessary. I like knowing that I can return the bike to stock at any time. Whether or not that's likely is another story... but that's me.
I think i share the same line of thinking, is flashing the ecu a much more affordable option though?
Not too worried about the legality portion of removing the cat, should be alright
Powercommander or Rapidbikes can not enhance performance at all.
All they can do is manage on top of existing fuel and ignition status but can not manage the throttle at all. These fly-by-wire bikes are 100% controlled and managed by the ECU.
All the upper rpm restrictions will remain in place.
The only way to enhance the performance of the bike is by way of an ECU reflash.
I’m simply trying to make sure the air/fuel ratios are good to avoid harming the engine, I’m not necessarily looking for more power. Still worth it to go with the power commander for this purpose, in your opinion obviously
Well, to be brutally honest while the bikes come lean from the factory and run lean and may occasionally ping and detonate from poor quality gas, they will never be damaged by running this way - Honda would never release and warranty them for sale if they ran this risk.
And the reality is that with fly-by-wire bikes the fuel correction offered by a Powercommander or Rapisbikes is still not the same as it was in the days of analog throttle bikes, as the actual throttle actuation is controlled by the ECU exclusively.
So while the PC5 or RB may see a lean state and add fuel, the throttle blades can never be opened in sympathy with this added fuel as the ECU by way of fixed ETV (electronic throttle valve) tables will only deliver the throttle opening indicated int he table. No matter what you do with your wrist.
If you turn on the bikes key and twist the throttle grip you will hear a ZZZzzZZZzZZZzz... then if you max out the throttle twists you'll here a ZZZzzzZZttttZzzzzTTTTzTTTT buzzing noise.
That is the Throttle body motor responding to your wrist action.and opening the butterflies. That is the only time that motor will ever do what you tell it to - while th ebike is runnign that motor will only do what the ECU tells it to do, no matter what you do with your wrist.
Same with the Powercomander, all it can do is trick the injectors to squirt more fuel, but the throttle blades will never be in the right place to properly use the fuel so the it will always be chasing its tail.
This is an example of the ETV tables in a stock SC80 CB1000R Seee A, B & C
A is your Throttle position, B is the Throttle blade, C is RPM.
So you can see when you are 100% open throttle at 11,000rpm, your Throttle blades are only open 80%.
Hi y’all- i currently have a sc project s1 slip on on my cb, just ordered the titanium headers.
i will be running the bike with the dB killer in- is a power commander necessary?
also, i ordered an aftermarket air filter (standard, not race). I’m wondering if this will change the answer to my first question. If i don’t need a power commander then i won’t buy one- i just want to prevent unnecessary wear on the engine.
Thanks
I had early only the RB , cause nothing else was available (plus i had no time for working @ reflash) as RC45 says you can use it , but will not completly solve the problem.
Last winter i did finally my reflash , bike run 10 times better .
Nowadays you will be able to DIY cause the woolich racing presented the kit in early autumn (https://www.woolichracing.com/produ...-honda-cb1000r-ecu-flashing.aspx#productTable
PC5 for this bike is useless , dot a favor to yourself buy something proper
I've been looking at the Woolich racing and have always like the idea of ECU tuning. I am just not wanting to put time into the trial and error of tuning. The Woolich website mentions maps with either kit, but I'm not sure if they are a finished ready-to-ride tune. I would prefer someone to offer an ECU reflash and tell me what they are changing. Still it's not a priority for me and the CB.
A proper flash will be customized to whatever mods you have or do not have on your bike, plus still leave all rider modes fully functional, and you'll have control of the user mode settings.
KCS ECU Solutions – Home of the WSBK Built in a Shed – ECU Tips Techniques v2.0 SC77 CBR1000RR ECU Mail-In Tune Tips & Techniques Now that you have decided to have KCS ECU Solutions unlock the potential of your ECU, what do you need to do? You will need to locate, access, remove, package and...
Just got the woolich physically installed to the bike- easy enough- i also created a ticket with woolich to see if there was an easy “blanket” map to get started since I’ve installed a full sc project exhaust system and am installing a bmc air filter soon
we’ll see what they say! Any experienced woolich users please feel free to chime in if you can
Short answer- there is no simplified way to map- air fuel ratios need to be known. So i got my serial number uploaded to the software- and will be visiting a Dyno so i don’t ruin it by myself
I'd be interesting in hearing about the effort to get the throttle valves to really open with the throttle twist for the area of the known torque and power dips.
I think @RC45 May be able to educate you on that one- i sure can’t
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