sketchy MIG welding it was a very windy day (50-60km/hr winds)
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looking through the 10mm hole to the 6mm hole (so a stainless cap head bolt will fit)
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couple of comparisons..
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on th ebike, it is pretty much flush with the end of the pipe, whereas Arrow stuck out a few mm
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I like the idea of buying me a tigger at the end of next year. You’re creative just like me.i just wish i had proper tools.. like a shear and a bender.. and a TIG.. and a... vacuum former for acrylic or pre-preg carbon...
yeah, eye watering eh? would not have purchased later, but could turn blind eye at point of sale
the cowl is light and.. almost flimsy.. and if it damages the main seat i'll be pissed... but, looks good
Cowl also means no tail pack, but am planning to make a tail pack adaptor using the cowl attachment point dimensions.. so can just click it on when needed.
not convinced the tank needs to come totally off.. depends on size of hands?
apart from tank, it looks pretty easy, and instructions have enough pictures
For initialisation, check out this video for a visual guide
you do need to bridge the DLC connector, but that's green and light green wires so is easy.
Have tried to cheaply source a Sumitomo MT or HM 090 4 pin plug, but shipping is like $20 for outside Oz (or china for 5 connector sets, delivered by November..)
I did look at other QS options (HM, Healtech, Dynojet, and a few others), but not all of them are up and down, and some need like PCV module to do it, and some connect direct to coils or injectors....
I figured at least the Honda one is both ways, and it is the ECU itself doing the cut, not extra wires on coils.
The OEM is not a downshift blipper, but it really doesn't need blipper with such a slick close ratio box.
I was going to wait to install later but..... hmmm.. effect on warranty? warranty of the QS itself? think they were going to charge about $300 to fit.... decisions...
Yeah, I followed the instructions to the letter and removed the tank, which in reality I would have gotten away by lifting the front up as you and Ghostrider have said. Wasn’t a bad experience though. You’re right, down shift is fine, up shifts are sometimes quite rough. It is the same on both bikes I have, however the up shift on the Fireblade seems to shift smoother at higher rpm and the CB up shifts smoother at lower rpm, weird. Hopefully it is ecu learning or something like you said and smooths out over time. The Fireblade has more settings for the QS to play with though which the CB doesn’t. It has made the shifting considerably better since playing around with it.good score on getting one cheaper $960 rrp is steep, but $1200 is just rude...
yup, i did lift the front of the tank 4 or 5 inches.. partially just to see what was under it
really really like the QS. the blip downshift is pretty much perfect, but the upshifts were a little off to begin with.
kind of seems like some ECU learning going on, (or rider learning ) as it seems to upshift smoother in all conditions as time went on.
and yup, paid retail (fitted myself) but it transforms the bike.
ground down the inner area so the mirror clamps fit. (from 33 to 31.5mm.. bench grinder, no lathe unfortunately)not happy with the mirror mounts/bar weights.. fair bit of vibration at cruising revs
could be because the inner bar weights are vibrating with a pivot point of the expanding alloy sleeve...
Honda end weights are about 92g.
just ordered these, at 250g each. ($40, RatedRparts on ebay)
they are 33mm OD, and the mirror clamps are 31.5, so should be easy to remove the 0.7mm needed to slip the mirror mounts over the inner side.
also thinking to make up some stuff for the bar inner, with much closer fit to the 17.5mm ID, and a few additional Viton o-rings to hold it in position firmly, but still allow removal...
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the weights turned up.. they are legit good quality, and good value