Honda CB1000R Forum banner

81 - 99 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #81
cheers. years ago people had to make their own stuff.. and in the absence of suitable aftermarket bits, seems like a good idea.. (sometimes :D )

few more pics. have painted (then bug flew on the front and had to repaint :p ) and will assemble in a week when it hardens

bracket-2.jpg
bracket-3.jpg
bracket-9.jpg
bracket-4.jpg
bracket-6.jpg

bracket-5.jpg
bracket-8.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
Basic satin black for now.
Was half thinking satin carbon wrap, would be easier than getting a good rattle can finish.
Hmm, didn't think of powdercoating...

This is just a minimal test meter protector for now. See if it affects airflow and rain.
With those brackets, can now attach to any visor shape i think of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
i'm pretty chuffed with the result. (for a bodge job)
what do you peeps think?

final-bracket.jpg
final-visor-1.jpg
final-visor-2.jpg

next on the list is bar end weights.. maybe something around 250-300g.
probably design a different internal clamping system and maximise in-bar weight as well.
if only i had a lathe LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
sketchy MIG welding :D it was a very windy day (50-60km/hr winds)
View attachment 45414

looking through the 10mm hole to the 6mm hole (so a stainless cap head bolt will fit)
View attachment 45416

couple of comparisons..
View attachment 45418
View attachment 45420

on th ebike, it is pretty much flush with the end of the pipe, whereas Arrow stuck out a few mm
View attachment 45422
i just wish i had proper tools.. like a shear and a bender.. and a TIG.. and a... vacuum former for acrylic or pre-preg carbon...
I like the idea of buying me a tigger at the end of next year. You’re creative just like me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #88
When i bought my MIG 20 years ago, TIGs were expensive, as was gas.

Simple DC TIGs are much cheaper these days, but main reason to get one would be for aluminium and stainless.. so.. high frequency AC?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
not happy with the mirror mounts/bar weights.. fair bit of vibration at cruising revs :(
could be because the inner bar weights are vibrating with a pivot point of the expanding alloy sleeve...

Honda end weights are about 92g.
just ordered these, at 250g each. ($40, RatedRparts on ebay)
they are 33mm OD, and the mirror clamps are 31.5, so should be easy to remove the 0.7mm needed to slip the mirror mounts over the inner side.

also thinking to make up some stuff for the bar inner, with much closer fit to the 17.5mm ID, and a few additional Viton o-rings to hold it in position firmly, but still allow removal...

s-l1600.jpg

the weights turned up.. they are legit good quality, and good value :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
yeah, eye watering eh? would not have purchased later, but could turn blind eye at point of sale ;)

the cowl is light and.. almost flimsy.. and if it damages the main seat i'll be pissed... but, looks good :)
Cowl also means no tail pack, but am planning to make a tail pack adaptor using the cowl attachment point dimensions.. so can just click it on when needed.

QS installation
http://powersports.honda.com/documentum/MW01/08U70-MKJ-D00.pdf
not convinced the tank needs to come totally off.. depends on size of hands?
apart from tank, it looks pretty easy, and instructions have enough pictures :D

For initialisation, check out this video for a visual guide

you do need to bridge the DLC connector, but that's green and light green wires so is easy.
Have tried to cheaply source a Sumitomo MT or HM 090 4 pin plug, but shipping is like $20 for outside Oz :p (or china for 5 connector sets, delivered by November..)

I did look at other QS options (HM, Healtech, Dynojet, and a few others), but not all of them are up and down, and some need like PCV module to do it, and some connect direct to coils or injectors....
I figured at least the Honda one is both ways, and it is the ECU itself doing the cut, not extra wires on coils.
The OEM is not a downshift blipper, but it really doesn't need blipper with such a slick close ratio box.

I was going to wait to install later but..... hmmm.. effect on warranty? warranty of the QS itself? think they were going to charge about $300 to fit.... decisions...

I came across a cheap 2nd hand quick shifter removed from the dealers demo bike for the 2018 CB1000R on eBay a few weeks ago for GBP 312.67 ($590.96 AUD) delivered to Australia. Just installed it the other day and initialised it by bridging the correct wires (no need for the Honda connector) and going through the procedure in the instructions. Works a treat, quite happy with the purchase as I was quoted about $1200 fitted from my local dealer :)

Also fitted one a little while ago to the 2017 CBR1000RR, easier install as you don't have to remove the tank like you do with the CB1000R.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #92
good score on getting one cheaper :) $960 rrp is steep, but $1200 is just rude...

yup, i did lift the front of the tank 4 or 5 inches.. partially just to see what was under it :D

really really like the QS. the blip downshift is pretty much perfect, but the upshifts were a little off to begin with.
kind of seems like some ECU learning going on, (or rider learning :D ) as it seems to upshift smoother in all conditions as time went on.

and yup, paid retail (fitted myself) but it transforms the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
good score on getting one cheaper :) $960 rrp is steep, but $1200 is just rude...

yup, i did lift the front of the tank 4 or 5 inches.. partially just to see what was under it :D

really really like the QS. the blip downshift is pretty much perfect, but the upshifts were a little off to begin with.
kind of seems like some ECU learning going on, (or rider learning :D ) as it seems to upshift smoother in all conditions as time went on.

and yup, paid retail (fitted myself) but it transforms the bike.
Yeah, I followed the instructions to the letter and removed the tank, which in reality I would have gotten away by lifting the front up as you and Ghostrider have said. Wasn’t a bad experience though. You’re right, down shift is fine, up shifts are sometimes quite rough. It is the same on both bikes I have, however the up shift on the Fireblade seems to shift smoother at higher rpm and the CB up shifts smoother at lower rpm, weird. Hopefully it is ecu learning or something like you said and smooths out over time. The Fireblade has more settings for the QS to play with though which the CB doesn’t. It has made the shifting considerably better since playing around with it.
Not complaining, the CB with a QS is the way to go, highly recommended to others thinking about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
after about 1000k's with it fitted, the only times it is not good is with too little throttle at lower rpm, but even then it is 90% good.. just the occasional rider error :D
high throttle and mid to high revs it is smoooth.. did not start out that way
i'm happy to use it on throttle through corners without upsetting the bike now... and downshifts leaned over as well (as long as the bike is actually decelerating at the time)

also cruising throttle is usually ok, but occasionally is a little jerky from engine inertia (but the shift itself is fine)
the cut time definitely varies with RPM.. can be quite long at low rpm, but usually that is ok as you are not opening throttle so much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
not happy with the mirror mounts/bar weights.. fair bit of vibration at cruising revs :(
could be because the inner bar weights are vibrating with a pivot point of the expanding alloy sleeve...

Honda end weights are about 92g.
just ordered these, at 250g each. ($40, RatedRparts on ebay)
they are 33mm OD, and the mirror clamps are 31.5, so should be easy to remove the 0.7mm needed to slip the mirror mounts over the inner side.

also thinking to make up some stuff for the bar inner, with much closer fit to the 17.5mm ID, and a few additional Viton o-rings to hold it in position firmly, but still allow removal...

View attachment 45982

the weights turned up.. they are legit good quality, and good value :)
ground down the inner area so the mirror clamps fit. (from 33 to 31.5mm.. bench grinder, no lathe unfortunately)
made a decent difference to bar vibration. not gone, but less, almost tolerable

maybe should have gone 300g, or will try to add a bit more weight inside.. plus not really well secured atm.. using electrical tape to make up the diameter inside.. will grind/print something to suit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #97
printed up a spacer.. 17.5mm to go into the bar, the inner expander goes in about 5mm, outer 22mm bit to space the mirror out.

print1.jpg
print2.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion Starter #99 (Edited)
Angel GT2's... have heard goos things about these, and should last 2-3x longer than the S21's

first ride.. they have a nice profile and makes tipping in a bit nicer.. and they already have plenty of grip... i like!
GT2.jpg
 
81 - 99 of 99 Posts
Top