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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi. 2015 CB1000R EU with Akro, decat and O2 eliminator. Had a PCV fitted for a while now using the appropriate map from the website all working ok. Managed to grab an autotune AT200 to go with it this week. Fitted ok, sensor at 12o clock position in the decat link pipe. Existing O2 sensor left in place for now, O2 eliminator already fitted to plug. All connected up and worked first time, lucky me. AFR reading seems fine when bike is running idle and I get the green autotune light fine if I add some revs and I can see it dynamically adjusting the fuel trims to maintain 13.2. I'm using the basic AFR table with everything set to 13.2 apart from the 0 throttle column. No exhaust leaks and I've blocked off the PAIR system by disconnecting the plug from the valve solenoid as per the instructions.

If you have a look at my trim table below after a 10 minute ride its just awful. Starts off fine when the table is zeroed, and then after 5-6 minutes riding the bike becomes very jumpy at around 4000-5000 RPM to the point where it surges forwards without any changes to throttle input, you can also hear the engine chugging like it wants to stall. Above 5000 seems fine no issues but I have to limp back to my driveway after each test ride. Doesn't do it with autotune disabled. engine temperature constant 75 degrees C throughout the ride, only goes up once idling as normal.

My first thought was the sensor, but I've run the self test and it seems ok unless its an intermittent fault be hard to find that if it only happens whilst riding. I thought it might be an exhaust leak but I can't find one and the tables seem to be reducing fuel (if I understand them correctly) meaning the sensor is seeing the AFR as too low/ rich<13.2 so too much fuel in the exhaust rather than too much air. I was thinking of reattaching the PAIR system back up in case unburnt fuel in the exhaust is throwing it off and trying again to see if any different.

First pic shows the fuel map (from dynojet website with -3s added to 0 column to remove popping), second pic is the AFR trim table. I haven't accepted this table, I keep zeroing it and sending it back then trying again but a similar table is built by the autotune again on the next ride so not a one off. I've set the authority to 40% adjustment. 3rd pic shows the AFR target table.

Can anyone see anything I might have missed?

With autotune disabled in the parameter (but still connected so I can see AFR), the AFR display is around 11-12 when revving and around 13 when idling so I can see what its trying to do, lean out the AFR by reducing the fuel to match 13.2.

48974


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48976
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I ran the sensor test again multiple times. Looks like it might be the sensor after all, going off the graph from the DynoJet installation instructions, at between 0-1000ft elevation I should be getting either 1 or 2 flashes on the sensor self test. I've seen 6, 7 and 10 on different runs. I removed the sensor and left it an hour before testing again, also made sure the sensor heater was running for a good 2-3 minutes. Happens every time. Not sure if the first time I did the test I did it wrong or maybe its intermittent and I got lucky that time but not much point doing any more on this until I can get the sensor to pass the self test. Might just disconnect the sensor loom wires and do some continuity and insulation resistance checks to rule out the loom. Going to try hanging another sensor in and see if this fixes it. Will update this post when it turns up.

I assume since the sensor is reading back elevation of 5000-6000, its measuring the air density thinner than it actually is. This would account for why the AFR appears low and why the autotune is lowering fuel to try and compensate when in reality its probably making AFR very lean hence the poor performance

48977
 

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Hi everyone. Just an update to this. I originally posted this a couple weeks ago so been working on it when I can. First had a bit of a nightmare, the place I bought it from sent me a spare sensor they had lying around to test. This one was even worse, I was constantly getting 655.36 (i think) AFR all of the time, although it did pass the self check. Anyway when I checked the part number of the sensor it was for an LSU 4.9 sensor, not an LSU 4.2 which the autotune kit uses. It was a bit annoying because I asked them if they would check first that it was, as the two types are not compatible and they said yes yes, LSU 4.2 no problem. But that meant I wasted 3 hours trying to figure out what I was doing wrong.

So I found a sensor myself. I went for this one BOSCH 0258987001 LS87001 LSU4.2. This is a slightly different part number to the Dynojet one although its the same sensor with the correct rectangular plug for the autotune. It was also much cheaper only £50 new here in the UK, took me a good hour of working out all the possible part numbers that I could go for.

With this sensor fitted, it passed the self check with only 2 flashes. I also tested it using a butane lighter and it reacted fine (which the 4.9 sensor did not). So flashed her up and my AFR on idle was around 18-20 which was more in line with what I was expecting due to the decat. I cleared all the trim tables and went for a ride. Thankfully, this was much better than with the old sensor, no surging or anything like that so I'm almost certain that the original sensor was to blame. I've got some pics of my trim tables below. This is only after one ride so going to do some more in the next few days. Hard to tell from one ride only, but seemed a lot more comfortable at lower revs, as in I wouldn't have to pull the clutch early because it felt like it would stall. I need to do some more rides though, theres a section in the tables where the fuel added is max (20 the preset limit). This is quite different from the map on the dynojet website for my setup - Akro, link pipe, O2 eliminator. One thing that did cross my mine is that I have disabled the PAIR system by disconnecting the Solenoid, not by blocking the hose. I read another thread where someone had suggested this alternative method but then another thread reported that their solenoid appeared to still be open after doing this. Probably worth a try though. I'll let you know.

49001

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I had an Akrapovič open slip-on (with optional link pipe) on my 2014. I followed their recommendation, easy peasy.
Akrapovič Slip-On with optional link pipe for Honda CB1000R must be used in combination with ECU fuel mapping enrichment, otherwise you risk severe engine damage!

For Dynojet Power Commander users: PC III USB mappings for HONDA CB1000R available
www.powercommander.com:
M135-504 (with DB killer)
M135-505 (without DB killer)
17523317_1702298573403792_5624892449379738249_n.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had an Akrapovič open slip-on (with optional link pipe) on my 2014. I followed their recommendation, easy peasy.
I'll take a look at this. I have to admit, I only looked at the PCV maps, not the PCIII ones. I'll see what kind of trims they're getting. Your bike looks the same as my setup. Always wish I'd bought the black one I think they look better than the red and black, although this one was a cracking price I couldn't really turn it down
 

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I'll take a look at this. I have to admit, I only looked at the PCV maps, not the PCIII ones. I'll see what kind of trims they're getting. Your bike looks the same as my setup. Always wish I'd bought the black one I think they look better than the red and black, although this one was a cracking price I couldn't really turn it down
My 2014 was new/old stock. Purchased in 2016 at a significant discount.
 

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My 2014 was new/old stock. Purchased in 2016 at a significant discount.
That's pretty much what I did, it had been in the showroom for ages. Traded in my 1 year old CB650R which I really didn't enjoy at all, it only had 800 miles on it but it was just boring probably ride itself without me on it
 

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That's pretty much what I did, it had been in the showroom for ages. Traded in my 1 year old CB650R which I really didn't enjoy at all, it only had 800 miles on it but it was just boring probably ride itself without me on it
Yeah, I traded in a 2014 CB500F that I had a couple of years for commuting so I could save my CBR1000RR for weekends only.
 
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