[DenominatorXero]

After a lot of head scratches and trial and error, my tuner figured what it takes to flash the bike. As help for others, he read the RPM off the sparkplug distributor wire, something we had a tough time trying to solve so the Dyno could accurately read the engine output.

To start, we figure this bike makes approx 120hp bone stock, but my first run was with all my mods installed:

Full Akra system headers + big can
PAIRS blockoffs
DNA race filter

This put down a little over 130 before remap. However it was extremely lean and ran very hot. I didn't run the bike before, beyond trying to break in the new exhaust because it would've ran terrible with the system and no remap.

He spent quite awhile identifying the proper tables for adjusting the fuel trim (we were worried as the changes weren't sticking initially) but after about 3.5 hrs we got it figured out. The new power values are just under 140hp and about 80 lbft torque (that's a lot of torque for a liter sport bike!)
Note: Real Dyno values are in the pic, about 138/78 . We quit removing TC after the first trial run as we were just trying to wrap things up so I am rounding up just a bit here.

SO we are looking at around +20 HP and +10lbft of torque over stock with mods and tune. Stock shows 120/68

While some may see only these numbers and think they're lacking, the real improvements come in the removal of throttle restrictions. Along with remapping he was able to:

Increase redline to 12.5k , and also provide full throttle into that peak redline (see graphs for the nose dive at 11k stock if you ever felt that)

Fully open throttle intakes flaps

Unlocking throttle input to allow 100% across the full range (1st gear throttle input was capped at 33%, most certainly a safety restriction )

And fixing that notorious leaned out flat spot on the torque from 4 to 7k.

Finally these inputs are on 2 of the 4 system ride modes, but I haven't figured which ones. We are confident that RAIN mode will stay restricted, but we believe it was standard and sport (he just said mode 1 and 2 but not sure which those mean) which have been adjusted. Will confirm after a few days of riding.

Bad news, Chris Moore was making a video, but decided to postpone releasing, as he doesn't have a harness for bench flash (only the connection for the Honda service port ergo for now he can only Dyno in person). He knows if he releases a vid he will be bombarded with mail in flash requests so he will hopefully release later.

Feel free to ask questions, I will post again after a few rides on how it feels.
Posting pics and will share Dyno run vids

 

[DenominatorXero]

Pretune runs

2021 CB1000R getting baseline dyno stats before the first ever tune

youtube.com

Final post flash runs

 

[DenominatorXero]

I haven't seen exhaust backfire on the video, is these has anything to do with full exhaust and tune? I am gonna install AK header with SC CRT and will tune the bike around April.

So yeah I never had much issues with backfire, this full size Akra can is baffled which may be arresting some of it, but I also learned from the tuner that a lot of the pop and fire comes from the additional air injection by the PAIRS valves, (I didn't want him to tune it in but it's an option and I inquired about how it's achieved)
So by removing them reduced the O2 available in the exhaust which would inhibit combustion in the exhaust itself.

Short answer if you WANT popcracklespitfire Chris can tune it in to certain bikes but told me I personally couldn't get it with the PAIRS removed

 

[DenominatorXero]

So the only ones I could find were by smartmoto , I shared the link on the FB group page I'll try to find it again (bought it awhile ago!) But the pack I bought came with a small electrical connector to prevent throwing a code when installed, but this will be disabled with the flash anyway (and another guy found a cheaper smartmoto pack that didn't have it.)

It's not "required" but it's far cleaner looking on the engine and will make a big difference when servicing sparkplugs in the future.

 

[DenominatorXero]

Which PAIRS blockoffs did you use? where did you get them? I know it's still new, but since I'm asking about the other stuff anyway, how's the bike? Ridden it much since the tune?

Thanks

Also, I've ridden it to work today and only a short ride the day after I had it done and the throttle response is the most noticable! Yes there's more power and the mid range actually exists now, but honestly the throttle input restrictions were doing the most at limiting the bikes feel.

Haven't had enough time to really put work in to pushing it especially in the mountains, but the additional power makes it much faster accelerating and top speed, but it's still easy to ride and usable, but when I WANT power I can actually HAVE ACCESS to it!

 

[DenominatorXero]

On noise, I do think the long can is a goldilocks zone level. I've had short cans, ran no baffle race setups, and nowadays it's not what I'm looking for to be as loud as possible. It's a great note with the ability to scream. On startup and warming up yes it's a bit loud but I only care because I have close neighbors, but at temp it's calm and purrs. I much prefer the look of the short cans but I pretty well figure it may be pushing the limits on noise for me. May get a cheaper shorter one and try it out still.

And yes regarding that power lul and kick at 7k, that is no more. You turn the throttle, you get the power. I def agree it was there as a safety thing, Chris will tell you it's a bit of a wheelie machine now, but as an experienced rider I want power when i expect it, and it gives me that.

I have only ridden my boys (5 and 8) a handfull of times on this bike, my FJR is better suited for them (bigger seat, softer ride, can still run when they want fun) but yes RAIN mode will still function as normal for when you don't need all the power. I was def sure to ask about that because I still want the option when it's less than ideal out!
TC still works as it should, EB as well, so wheelies will eventually get caught by the speed sensor so you can't loop it with TC active.

 

[DenominatorXero]

It would be ideal for me to have the full power mode activated in user mode so tc can be off. with tc on you can't use the quick shifter with the wheel in the air, and that just won't do. Did you figure out which mode has the full beans?

Unfortunately I haven't figured that out in my limited time on the bike. If we can figure what he means by

" modes 1 and 2 "

Whichever those where. I agree having them in USER is ideal for TC disable, we ran it on user for the entire time of the tune so it may actually be where one map went? Does the shop manual maybe refer to the modes by numbers relating to names? Haven't looked thru mine yet to see

 

[DenominatorXero]

Hi, do you know your ecu part number? Heard from woolich that there is a problem for A61. Yeah my bike is still un the shop😐. They are working on it though.

Hey bud you commented on my video right? Chris never got back to me on what table needed to be changed. Sorry about that!

But I need to find my pic from last year where I got my ECU # , I'll respond ASAP with that for ya.

Where I can find the ECU, BTW

There are 3 large wired connections going into the ECU, it's pretty obvious, I'll see if I can find my pic of its location

 

[DenominatorXero]

 

[DenominatorXero]

Hi, do you know your ecu part number? Heard from woolich that there is a problem for A61. Yeah my bike is still un the shop😐. They are working on it though.

Hey looks like I have an A61 , I know my changes saved I think the tuner and Woolich need to clarify what tables they're modifying and ensure he's putting them in the right place.

 

[DenominatorXero]

Where I can find the ECU, BTW

See my pic above, that's my ECU disconnected