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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After a lot of head scratches and trial and error, my tuner figured what it takes to flash the bike. As help for others, he read the RPM off the sparkplug distributor wire, something we had a tough time trying to solve so the Dyno could accurately read the engine output.

To start, we figure this bike makes approx 120hp bone stock, but my first run was with all my mods installed:

Full Akra system headers + big can
PAIRS blockoffs
DNA race filter

This put down a little over 130 before remap. However it was extremely lean and ran very hot. I didn't run the bike before, beyond trying to break in the new exhaust because it would've ran terrible with the system and no remap.

He spent quite awhile identifying the proper tables for adjusting the fuel trim (we were worried as the changes weren't sticking initially) but after about 3.5 hrs we got it figured out. The new power values are just under 140hp and about 80 lbft torque (that's a lot of torque for a liter sport bike!)
Note: Real Dyno values are in the pic, about 138/78 . We quit removing TC after the first trial run as we were just trying to wrap things up so I am rounding up just a bit here.

SO we are looking at around +20 HP and +10lbft of torque over stock with mods and tune. Stock shows 120/68

While some may see only these numbers and think they're lacking, the real improvements come in the removal of throttle restrictions. Along with remapping he was able to:

Increase redline to 12.5k , and also provide full throttle into that peak redline (see graphs for the nose dive at 11k stock if you ever felt that)

Fully open throttle intakes flaps

Unlocking throttle input to allow 100% across the full range (1st gear throttle input was capped at 33%, most certainly a safety restriction ;) )

And fixing that notorious leaned out flat spot on the torque from 4 to 7k.

Finally these inputs are on 2 of the 4 system ride modes, but I haven't figured which ones. We are confident that RAIN mode will stay restricted, but we believe it was standard and sport (he just said mode 1 and 2 but not sure which those mean) which have been adjusted. Will confirm after a few days of riding.

Bad news, Chris Moore was making a video, but decided to postpone releasing, as he doesn't have a harness for bench flash (only the connection for the Honda service port ergo for now he can only Dyno in person). He knows if he releases a vid he will be bombarded with mail in flash requests so he will hopefully release later.

Feel free to ask questions, I will post again after a few rides on how it feels.
Posting pics and will share Dyno run vids
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Thanks a lot for taking the time to post the results for us, greatly appreciated. Really nice gains from 4500 all the way up, exactly what this bike needs I think. I’ve been waiting so long for a flash it sucks to hear I need to keep waiting for him to get a harness for bench flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I haven't seen exhaust backfire on the video, is these has anything to do with full exhaust and tune? I am gonna install AK header with SC CRT and will tune the bike around April.
So yeah I never had much issues with backfire, this full size Akra can is baffled which may be arresting some of it, but I also learned from the tuner that a lot of the pop and fire comes from the additional air injection by the PAIRS valves, (I didn't want him to tune it in but it's an option and I inquired about how it's achieved)
So by removing them reduced the O2 available in the exhaust which would inhibit combustion in the exhaust itself.

Short answer if you WANT popcracklespitfire Chris can tune it in to certain bikes but told me I personally couldn't get it with the PAIRS removed
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So the only ones I could find were by smartmoto , I shared the link on the FB group page I'll try to find it again (bought it awhile ago!) But the pack I bought came with a small electrical connector to prevent throwing a code when installed, but this will be disabled with the flash anyway (and another guy found a cheaper smartmoto pack that didn't have it.)

It's not "required" but it's far cleaner looking on the engine and will make a big difference when servicing sparkplugs in the future.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Which PAIRS blockoffs did you use? where did you get them? I know it's still new, but since I'm asking about the other stuff anyway, how's the bike? Ridden it much since the tune?

Thanks
Also, I've ridden it to work today and only a short ride the day after I had it done and the throttle response is the most noticable! Yes there's more power and the mid range actually exists now, but honestly the throttle input restrictions were doing the most at limiting the bikes feel.

Haven't had enough time to really put work in to pushing it especially in the mountains, but the additional power makes it much faster accelerating and top speed, but it's still easy to ride and usable, but when I WANT power I can actually HAVE ACCESS to it!
 

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It's not "required" but it's far cleaner looking on the engine and will make a big difference when servicing sparkplugs in the future.
Awesome, thanks. Ya, I mostly just like it for the cleaner look. it's not much money and there are other benefits to it so it feels worth it once your working on it anyway. How do you think the bike sounds with the long can and baffle in? too loud? not too loud? or would goldilocks be happy with it?
 

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Haven't had enough time to really put work in to pushing it especially in the mountains, but the additional power makes it much faster accelerating and top speed, but it's still easy to ride and usable, but when I WANT power I can actually HAVE ACCESS to it!
That's great to hear. It definitely feels like the bike is deciding when to go, and not you in stock form. Which i guess is good for new riders and for me as a new rider to 4 cylinder bikes from harleys, this was actually pretty scary when you got that top end rush going in the lower gears, it was kinda nice feeling the bike lul a bit warning me of the impending rocket ship affect and letting me settle in my correct position before going nuts. but eventually you get used to the power as with anything and just want to be able to use all the power when you feel you need it. there's been a couple of times in town or city traffic, where i twist the throttle fully and just have to wait and i'm kinda like well hmm that wasn't really how i wanted that to happen. and it would just take too long to drop two or three gears to get out of that rpm range then accelerate etc. it's something that's still on my wish list, but now my 3 year old son has been riding with me to the mail box and to a 2 mile jaunt for ice cream. he loves it, but i can already hardly hear him as it is and me loving my child, don't really need more power when he's on the back anyway. i guess i can always put it back in rain mode and be back to square one like you were saying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
On noise, I do think the long can is a goldilocks zone level. I've had short cans, ran no baffle race setups, and nowadays it's not what I'm looking for to be as loud as possible. It's a great note with the ability to scream. On startup and warming up yes it's a bit loud but I only care because I have close neighbors, but at temp it's calm and purrs. I much prefer the look of the short cans but I pretty well figure it may be pushing the limits on noise for me. May get a cheaper shorter one and try it out still.

And yes regarding that power lul and kick at 7k, that is no more. You turn the throttle, you get the power. I def agree it was there as a safety thing, Chris will tell you it's a bit of a wheelie machine now, but as an experienced rider I want power when i expect it, and it gives me that.

I have only ridden my boys (5 and 8) a handfull of times on this bike, my FJR is better suited for them (bigger seat, softer ride, can still run when they want fun) but yes RAIN mode will still function as normal for when you don't need all the power. I was def sure to ask about that because I still want the option when it's less than ideal out!
TC still works as it should, EB as well, so wheelies will eventually get caught by the speed sensor so you can't loop it with TC active.
 

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It would be ideal for me to have the full power mode activated in user mode so tc can be off. with tc on you can't use the quick shifter with the wheel in the air, and that just won't do. Did you figure out which mode has the full beans?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It would be ideal for me to have the full power mode activated in user mode so tc can be off. with tc on you can't use the quick shifter with the wheel in the air, and that just won't do. Did you figure out which mode has the full beans?
Unfortunately I haven't figured that out in my limited time on the bike. If we can figure what he means by

" modes 1 and 2 "

Whichever those where. I agree having them in USER is ideal for TC disable, we ran it on user for the entire time of the tune so it may actually be where one map went? Does the shop manual maybe refer to the modes by numbers relating to names? Haven't looked thru mine yet to see
 

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i have to say, it all sounds pretty good. With my son starting to get on the back for tiny jaunts, I was figuring maybe i'd skip the mod for a while and only get it once i got a second bike that was more passenger friendly, but this being his first experience he could care less about no back rest. he loves to hold on and peak around me and say "leeetttsss gooooo" when the light turns green haha. so now i'm thinking maybe i just get a little dirt bike for him and one for me and he can learn to ride his own. but then my wife really wants that goldwing back seat and i don't have space for a motorcycle collection, unless i start renting out a storage unit as a spare garage haha. but glad things turned out the way they did, that's what i would've hoped for out of my tune. maybe i'll get it sooner than later, thanks for you updates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi, do you know your ecu part number? Heard from woolich that there is a problem for A61. Yeah my bike is still un the shop😐. They are working on it though.
Hey bud you commented on my video right? Chris never got back to me on what table needed to be changed. Sorry about that!

But I need to find my pic from last year where I got my ECU # , I'll respond ASAP with that for ya.

Where I can find the ECU, BTW
There are 3 large wired connections going into the ECU, it's pretty obvious, I'll see if I can find my pic of its location
 
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