Hi,
So my friend who I sold my bike to started having the the problem of the clock resetting to 1:00. At first it was when the bike was turned off for over an hour or so, and later the clock would reset immediately after turning the ignition off and on again. The HISS light was also behaving strangely, it would stay on permanently when the ignition was off instead of flashing for 24 hours.
We took the meter apart and found corrosion on the PCB and components. When you flip the meter over to look at the back, this is the bottom right area. The PCB and components are covered in a protective layer of some kind of varnish, but it seems the corrosion started underneath that layer.
![48800]()
After a bit of cleaning with Isopropyl Alcohol and a soft brush, closer inspection revealed that a leg of one of the components was completely gone to the corrosion.
![48803]()
In the process of trying a quick fix by trying to get solder to bridge the gap, we unfortunately managed to damage the pad next to the 'A', and lose the component in the process, oops!. Luckily the pictures had already been taken.
![48804]()
All was not lost, after reaching out to the users of a Reddit electronics group, I was informed that this component was most likely a double signal diode in a SOT23 package, indicated by the D251 marked next to the component. So I ordered some of these- https://cpc.farnell.com/nxp/bat54c/diode-schottky-dual/dp/SC11298?CMP=TREML007-005
The track to the damaged pad is also clearly visible with a nice point to solder to not too far away. With a trusty soldering station, new component in hand, some very thin enamelled wire, and a USB Microscope that cost a whopping £5, I set out to replace the diode.
![48808]()
![48809]()
Not the best image in the world from the microscope, but more than adequate to be able to see enough to do the job. The top left pad and centre right pad were soldered in place, with the enamelled copper wire being used to repair the broken track and soldered to the lower left leg.
![48805]()
Can't understate how pleased with myself I am here
Just to give you an idea of the size we're talking about. Once we verified that it was now working as intended, I fixed the enamelled wire with some superglue and covered the new diode with Toluene free clear nail varnish/polish as recommended by some computer overclocking enthusiasts.
![48806]()
Fingers crossed it continues to work for a while
![48807]()
cb1000r clock always at 1:00,
So my friend who I sold my bike to started having the the problem of the clock resetting to 1:00. At first it was when the bike was turned off for over an hour or so, and later the clock would reset immediately after turning the ignition off and on again. The HISS light was also behaving strangely, it would stay on permanently when the ignition was off instead of flashing for 24 hours.
We took the meter apart and found corrosion on the PCB and components. When you flip the meter over to look at the back, this is the bottom right area. The PCB and components are covered in a protective layer of some kind of varnish, but it seems the corrosion started underneath that layer.
After a bit of cleaning with Isopropyl Alcohol and a soft brush, closer inspection revealed that a leg of one of the components was completely gone to the corrosion.
In the process of trying a quick fix by trying to get solder to bridge the gap, we unfortunately managed to damage the pad next to the 'A', and lose the component in the process, oops!. Luckily the pictures had already been taken.
All was not lost, after reaching out to the users of a Reddit electronics group, I was informed that this component was most likely a double signal diode in a SOT23 package, indicated by the D251 marked next to the component. So I ordered some of these- https://cpc.farnell.com/nxp/bat54c/diode-schottky-dual/dp/SC11298?CMP=TREML007-005
The track to the damaged pad is also clearly visible with a nice point to solder to not too far away. With a trusty soldering station, new component in hand, some very thin enamelled wire, and a USB Microscope that cost a whopping £5, I set out to replace the diode.
Not the best image in the world from the microscope, but more than adequate to be able to see enough to do the job. The top left pad and centre right pad were soldered in place, with the enamelled copper wire being used to repair the broken track and soldered to the lower left leg.
Can't understate how pleased with myself I am here
Just to give you an idea of the size we're talking about. Once we verified that it was now working as intended, I fixed the enamelled wire with some superglue and covered the new diode with Toluene free clear nail varnish/polish as recommended by some computer overclocking enthusiasts.
Fingers crossed it continues to work for a while
cb1000r clock always at 1:00,
