ride-by-wire & WOT - Page 2
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  1. #11
    Senior Member COLVERT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MachRider View Post
    With throttle by wire, all you're doing is giving the ECM a request for 0-100% throttle opening, the ECM decides how much you really get. Compare a non-TBW Fuel injected bike to a carbureted bike.

    You can actually give a carbureted bike TOO much throttle and it will not accelerate as fast as possible because you're unable to get physics to pull in enough fuel/air. With a fuel injection bike, you can always give the bike an accurate value for the amount of air it gets based on how much throttle opening is, so the ECM knows how to give the appropriate amount of fuel.

    Nowadays, with emissions, the bike will only allow certain amounts of throttle opening despite what you might be asking it. Hell, you could have it like a modern car where you can floor it in Eco mode but all the ECU is going to give you is 60% throttle opening.
    What you say---------



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  2. #12
    Senior Member COLVERT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vampire View Post
    since everything is decided by a computer, why not make WOT = full power?
    imagine you decide to modulate your speed/acceleration from a WOT situation by rolling off millimeters of the throttle, bike will accelerate more.
    this is inconvenient and not safe.
    WOT is just that when high up the rev range but at lower speeds you would spend most of your time viewing the sky or ending up like this forum member.----



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  3. #13
    Senior Member COLVERT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apri11 View Post
    I’m confused to what you actually mean sorry. So your WOT in 6th, then roll off 5mm. How does the bike “accelerate harder than full throttle” if you have rolled off from WOT? I’m confused sorry.... anyone explain?
    I'll try.-Lol.---Depends on the speed.--Mid range revs at WOT does not mean full power. Just what the ECU is programmed to give you to stop the rear tyre from spinning up or the front tyre rapidly leaving contact with the road.

    As soon as the bike speed increases the ECU gradually feeds in more and more power until the engine has reached maximum output.

    The rider stays happily rubber side down.---
    Personal Disclaimer:
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    Some of what I say may go against your own thoughts and may seem harsh, targeted and malicious.
    This is not my intention – I am simply using my experience, including other peoples, as a way of debating and giving advice - of which there is no guarantee that it's correct

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  5. #14
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    /yawn

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  6. #15
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vampire View Post
    I have noticed that full throttle does not represent full throttle!
    how to explain this?

    In 6th gear, when I roll off WOT by 5mm (maybe less),, bike accelerate harder than full throttle. very noticeable.
    I can say WOT = 90-95% throttle

    anybody else noticed this?
    just to be clear, full throttle is 20mm rotation of the grip, so 5mm = 75% throttle. that's a fair bit
    90% throttle would be 2mm less than WOT (95% = 1mm)

    perhaps there could a placebo effect where you expect the bike to slow, but maintains rate of acceleration?

    however it really depends where in the rev range, as the change in timing and fuel is quite different through the maps, as well as the slight decel fuel cut.
    this makes a very large difference midway through the rev range where the port velocity is low.

  7. #16
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    alternatively, you could check the voltages of your APS (throttle sensor)

    there are actually 2 position sensors in there.
    both VCC1 (Y-R) and VCC2 (W-R) should be +5V

    the output of APS1 should be 4.433-4.567V with throttle open, and 0.433-0.567 with throttle closed.
    the output of APS2 should be 2.183-2.317V with throttle open, and 0.183-0.317 with throttle closed.
    the voltage for APS1 should smoothly increase all the way, (and APS2 decrease) with no changes or dips.

    there are diagrams, but is basically standard method for checking a TPS (here, each row of three pins is a separate sensor)


    Colvert, can you please check this on your NSC CB1000R as well please?
    Last edited by oldcorollas; 11-20-2019 at 05:48 AM.

  8. #17
    Senior Member DELuth's Avatar
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    This! A simple check with a voltmeter will verify what the throttle is doing. Seat-of-the-pants is notoriously unreliable.

    Honda is famous for sandbagging the ignition timing at WOT in high gear. Maybe this is a factor?
    "I don't know how to put this, but I'm kind of a big deal. People know me. I'm very important. I have many leather-bound books and my apartment smells of rich mahogany."

    My Bike

  9. #18
    Member vampire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldcorollas View Post
    just to be clear, full throttle is 20mm rotation of the grip, so 5mm = 75% throttle. that's a fair bit
    90% throttle would be 2mm less than WOT (95% = 1mm)

    perhaps there could a placebo effect where you expect the bike to slow, but maintains rate of acceleration?
    2 or 5mm,, you get the idea.
    I double triple checked in 4th, 5th & 6th gear.
    very noticeable
    spun out '

  10. #19
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    🙂
    What rpm range is it doing it?

    With traction off or on?

    Have you pulled error codes?
    Or... Is it just the lean surge?
    Last edited by oldcorollas; 11-24-2019 at 02:51 AM.

  11. #20
    Member vampire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldcorollas View Post
    🙂
    What rpm range is it doing it?

    With traction off or on?

    Have you pulled error codes?
    Or... Is it just the lean surge?
    At power level 2&3 and traction control level 1&2.
    Above 6k rpm.
    Stock and rapid bike.
    I have a strong feeling it's the damm computer
    spun out '

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