Rear Paddock Stand - Page 3
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  1. #21
    Senior Member Tifa's Avatar
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    OldC....thanks for taking the time to put that up.
    Really, really useful, and just the job for the R&G route.
    I really like the speed and simplicity of paddock stands, but I've come to the conclusion that Honda design in Italy were not on the case when it came to thinking through the logistics of us DIY'ers getting that back wheel out.
    The deafening silence from Honda on this issue is evidence of this.
    So, although a little more fiddly, I guess the good old ABBA is the go to stand at this time?
    Just ordered a pair of CB specific frame plugs for mine.

  2. #22
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    haha, it's like they just plain forgot about lifting up the rear of the bike!
    luckily my front stand has a 1/2" base sized pin for the adaptors to go onto, otherwise that would not fit either. still need to flex the mudguard out of the way to get it in though

    what do the Abba frame plugs look like?
    which holes do they go into??


    the spindle assembly i'm thinking of.. will have all the stuff at RHS permanently mounted on the bolt. (can get M18x300 and M18x350 high tensile bolts off the shelf)
    slide it through from rim side, then put on washers and bearing, and do up the nut. (would be massive butterfly nut to make easier)
    take less than a minute to put it in, then lift with normal stand, then take out after cleaning/lubing chain

    only the bearing outers are free to move, so everything else rotates with the wheel,and the bearings are stationary on the stand.
    means welding up new attachments for the stand, but that's easy

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    Last edited by oldcorollas; 09-02-2018 at 04:43 AM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Tifa's Avatar
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    Playing around with the feasability of having an 18mm (think it's a little bigger?) pin turned for my paddockstand.
    ALSO....a sleeve with an internal 18mm hole, turned to slide in from the r/h side.
    That way, the pin would have loads of meat to sit on.
    What do you think OldC?

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  5. #24
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    I couldn't measure for sure with tools i had, but seemed like the majority of the hub was larger internal diameter than the rim.
    I'll see if i can borrow a bore gauge, or make something up.

    If rim has a larger bore, then easy to insert something into the hub to spread the load.
    If not.... Grind out the rim bore? Maybe after warranty...

    https://au.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/...0ra/rear-wheel
    Problem with the bolt (19 in image below) is that it goes into the sprocket hub assembly (10) with a single bearing (29, which is 35x55x10) that turns the cush drive.

    I'm no expert, but i don't feel so comfortable jacking up a bike by the sprocket 😞

    The hub itself runs on 2 bearings, 28 and 30, (6908LU=40x62x12, and 91062MR7003=50x62x25 needle bearing)


  6. #25
    Senior Member Tifa's Avatar
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    Yep, you're right.
    If for instance the centre wheel hole dia is less that the hub (thereby preventing sliding in a sleeve) what's to stop taking the wheel off, THEN inserting the sleeve, then replace the wheel.
    In other words, just leave it in?
    If it was ali, it'd have minimal cost weight wise..?
    Fully genius eh?

  7. #26
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    I do like the idea (and would prefer to do it that way) but...

    Is the hub/axle steel or alloy?
    How thin are the walls?
    How to get perfect fit?
    Could it be damaged regardless of how careful we are?
    If so, is only usd$125 to replace.. not too bad..


    Hmmm, for the R&G solution, will it allow free (small) movement of the cush drive?

  8. #27
    Senior Member Tifa's Avatar
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    Pretty sure the hub is steel.
    If the sleeve (for lightness) was ali, then I thing the surfaces between the sleeve/hub would need coating with something to stop any electrolytic corrosion. A simple smear of a decent silicon grease should do the trick.
    If the sleeve was nice and snug in there, it just might do the trick.

  9. #28
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    Or a chunk of decent engineering plastic?

  10. #29
    Senior Member COLVERT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tifa View Post
    Pretty sure the hub is steel.
    If the sleeve (for lightness) was ali, then I thing the surfaces between the sleeve/hub would need coating with something to stop any electrolytic corrosion. A simple smear of a decent silicon grease should do the trick.
    If the sleeve was nice and snug in there, it just might do the trick.
    STEEL.-------------Could you poke one of these in to see if it's steel or not ??

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  11. #30
    Senior Member oldcorollas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
    STEEL.-------------Could you poke one of these in to see if it's steel or not ??

    even better... fridge magnets

    definitely magnetic
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