LED H4 HI/LOW bulbs - Page 3
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  1. #21
    Senior Member RumbleFish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsky7 View Post
    The forward 3 leds have a little silver "cup", make sure the cup is under the leds when mounted.

    The leds at the front, non connector end, are the low beam. Some of the light hits the cup and goes up, bounces off the reflector onto the ground in front of you.

    Hope that makes sense.
    Got it, thanks.

  2. #22
    Senior Member RumbleFish's Avatar
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    Got it installed. My, my it's is very bright indeed! They'll see me better now for sure and what a difference when riding on a dark street!

  3. #23
    Senior Member COLVERT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DELuth View Post
    They use a passive radiator, Col. No fan.
    This is their pic. Maybe they don't know what they are selling.---


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    Personal Disclaimer:
    My thoughts are intended to provide a sounding board for your own.
    Some of what I say may go against your own thoughts and may seem harsh, targeted and malicious.
    This is not my intention – I am simply using my experience, including other peoples, as a way of debating and giving advice - of which there is no guarantee that it's correct

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  5. #24
    Senior Member jonsky7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
    This is their pic. Maybe they don't know what they are selling.---


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    No, they obviously don't know. There isn't a fan.

    Nighteye website

    These are being sold under several brand names it looks like.
    Nighteye at Amazon.com
    Nighteye at ebay.com
    Auxbeam at Amazon.com
    Beamtech at Amazon.com

    Nighteye H4 ebay.co.uk
    Nighteye H4 at Amazon.co.uk
    Last edited by jonsky7; 05-15-2018 at 04:57 PM.

  6. #25
    Senior Member DELuth's Avatar
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    That's not airflow, it's heat dissipation. You are assuming it's air.
    "I don't know how to put this, but I'm kind of a big deal. People know me. I'm very important. I have many leather-bound books and my apartment smells of rich mahogany."

    My Bike

  7. #26
    Junior Member rockportcity's Avatar
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    I've got one Nighteye H4 shipping on the way
    But just for clarification, does anyone use this Nighteye H4 and have any problems with the battery or regulator/rectifier ?

    I was told one time that for any bike that is designed to have headlight always on (like CB1000r), that headlight is also used as a "power dissipator" to continuously drain ~55/60W from the rectifier. If the headlight power is reduced to ~25W (change to LED bulb), then those 30W remaining from that 55w continuously above will go "no-where", and, maybe pushed back to the battery and kill the battery after longtime

    It seems silly, but is that true ??

  8. #27
    Senior Member jonsky7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockportcity View Post
    I've got one Nighteye H4 shipping on the way
    But just for clarification, does anyone use this Nighteye H4 and have any problems with the battery or regulator/rectifier ?

    I was told one time that for any bike that is designed to have headlight always on (like CB1000r), that headlight is also used as a "power dissipator" to continuously drain ~55/60W from the rectifier. If the headlight power is reduced to ~25W (change to LED bulb), then those 30W remaining from that 55w continuously above will go "no-where", and, maybe pushed back to the battery and kill the battery after longtime

    It seems silly, but is that true ??
    Any excess voltage that the regulator sees is dumped/shunted to earth down the green wire in the diagram and converted to heat, hence the heatsink type shape of the rectifier/regulator.
    If it isn't maintaining it's set voltage then it isn't working as intended.
    You could maybe argue that it may be making the regulator hotter by shunting more voltage because of the reduced power draw, that is until you turn on your added heated grips/phone charger/etc.
    There's no specifications on the reg/rec to see if 30W is a big deal or not.

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  9. #28
    Junior Member rockportcity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsky7 View Post
    Any excess voltage that the regulator sees is dumped/shunted to earth down the green wire in the diagram and converted to heat, hence the heatsink type shape of the rectifier/regulator.
    If it isn't maintaining it's set voltage then it isn't working as intended.
    You could maybe argue that it may be making the regulator hotter by shunting more voltage because of the reduced power draw, that is until you turn on your added heated grips/phone charger/etc.
    There's no specifications on the reg/rec to see if 30W is a big deal or not.

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    So is it safer if when we change bulb from 55w to 25w, we add something 30w (heated grip, phone chargers, etc) to compensate to this power reduction

    Rather than just let those 30w go back to the rectifier and make it operate hotter, and may cause some problems to the rectifier after long, long run (10k km, 20k km) ?

  10. #29
    Senior Member jonsky7's Avatar
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    I'm sure the regulator/rectifier has a decent range, but the manual doesn't list any specs, all I could find is that it's a SHINDENGEN sh750aa and is also used on the CB600 series.

  11. #30
    Member sloth31's Avatar
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    Ive been running mine since November, 1200 miles.
    i have had no issues.

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