Rear brake pads
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Thread: Rear brake pads

  1. #1
    Junior Member ediboy's Avatar
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    Rear brake pads

    I just want to ask if replacing brake pads for 2012 do I need to remove the wheels?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Junior Member garybee's Avatar
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    Definitely leave the front wheel on. I'd remove the rear though just to make access easier. You can do it with the rear wheel on bit access isn't good. I'd only do it that way if I didn't have a paddock stand or any way of lifting the rear.

    For the 2 minutes it takes to remove the rear it's well worth the extra effort.

  3. #3
    Senior Member doser's Avatar
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    garybee's got it right. it's possible, but a bitch to deal with, with the wheel in place...
    piling the mileage on...

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  5. #4
    Senior Member DELuth's Avatar
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    Yep, Garybee has the answers.

    You wouldn't be able to get the front wheel off without removing the calipers first, anyways.

    The stock pads kinda suck but are quiet and won't damage the rotors. If you want better performance, I suggest aftermarket pads like Carbone Lorraine (CL Brakes) XBK5 pads, EBC, etc. Really any sintered pad will probably be better so long as you don't mind a little rotor wear and that ssszzzzzzzz sound they tend to make when braking hard. Just don't get a full race pad for the street as they usually need a ton of heat to work properly.
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  6. #5
    Junior Member ediboy's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply.
    Removing the rear tire is abit pain, just to change the pads. I dont think I will do it but in case, what is the torque for the rear wheel axle.
    thanks

  7. #6
    Senior Member DELuth's Avatar
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    The rear wheel removal on a single-sided swingarm is easy.

    The muffler has to be moved (easy) and you lake off the 4 lug nuts holding the wheel. You never have to touch the axle nut. The lug nut torque is 80 lbft or 108 Nm.
    "I don't know how to put this, but I'm kind of a big deal. People know me. I'm very important. I have many leather-bound books and my apartment smells of rich mahogany."

    My Bike

  8. #7
    Junior Member ediboy's Avatar
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    Thanks Deluth. Is there a video somewhere around this forum that shows gow to remove the rear wheel tire? I want to see also where the jack will be place. Right now I am using a pitbull kind of stand. Maybe later ill post the picture about the position of my bike at this time. Im sure Deluth you can help me doing all of this. of course I need to save some money for the labor and at the same time Im learning too. I will be thanking you in advance.

  9. #8
    Senior Member DELuth's Avatar
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    Look under the exhaust at where the muffler attaches to the catalytic converter and loosen that band clamp. Around the right side footrest you will see two bolts that the muffler hangs from. Remove them. Now, with a little wiggling, the muffler will slide off of the catalytic converter. Be careful as the muffler gasket is fragile. All that is left is loosening the lug nuts a little bit while the bike is on the ground and then jack the bike up and remove the lug nuts and wheel. A tip: You can hold the rear brake pedal to keep the wheel from moving around while loosening and tightening the lug nuts.

    I would post some pics, but my stock exhaust is long gone.


    The only video I can find is here:




    As for your stand, do you have the Pitbull stand that is for single sided swingarm? If so, that's all you need. If you have a normal style stand, idk what you would need to do to make that work. I would sell it and get the correct stand. It's not worth getting hurt or dropping the bike trying to make it work.

    My pitbull stand looks like this:

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    "I don't know how to put this, but I'm kind of a big deal. People know me. I'm very important. I have many leather-bound books and my apartment smells of rich mahogany."

    My Bike

  10. #9
    Senior Member doser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DELuth View Post
    Be careful as the muffler gasket is fragile.
    as usual DELuth nails it! my additional comments would be that my experience has been (a) that the gasket will likely 'hang up' as you try to re-install the muffler. you might or might not be able to work it back into place. I eventually just gave up on it, and re-install my muffler these days now without the gasket. you can get a little bit of exhaust leakage at the junction this way, but has not seemed to be a problem over many kms. and (b) the OEM bolt on the muffler band is made of cheese, and is very easy to break. get a spare from your dealership before starting work, or better yet, buy a tougher bolt from a specialty supplier (M8 x 35mm, altho can be longer, as it passes thru). all muffler mounting bolts are 16 ft/lbs torque, btw...
    piling the mileage on...

  11. #10
    Junior Member ediboy's Avatar
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    Thank you so much Deluth. You have given me the complete info and really very much appreciated. Now I know whom to ask...When the weather here get warmer I will start working on it.Can I ask more if I need more info?

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