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What Mileage are you checking VALVES?

12K views 25 replies 19 participants last post by  Eldon 
#1 ·
I believe manual says 16,000 miles, but what is everyone really doing. I heard 25,000 is a good time to check?
 
#2 ·
Never.

I'd need a really good reason to go through all that work. If these engines had a track record of the adjustment getting tight and burning valves, I would do it. Past that, I'm not interested. Maybe after 100k I would consider it if I was really, really bored.


Don't take my advice, I'm like Jon Snow. I know nothing.
 
#4 ·
I want to know what Ghostrider has to say on the subject. We may not always agree, but I respect his opinion and recognize his experience.
 
#6 ·
I'm going to go with never also haha. I'll need to have problems to check. On my old F4i it started making a ticking sound that wasn't there before at 37,000 miles. I figured I should probably have the valves checked. Took it to a motorcycle friend who also does jobs on the side. He took bike for a ride and said don't worry about, bike is great. Alright then. At 45,000-ish thousand miles, my wife decided she wanted to learn to ride. Awesome. This time it's her on the bike, so took it in to make damn sure bike is safe for her. They gave it a once over, and checked the valves for me. I just paid for their time to check, bike needed nothing, not even a valve adjustment.
 
#7 ·
Me too. Another NEVER unless I can hear something making a noise.

Never touched my Hornet at 45,000. Was perfect when I sold it on.
 
#9 ·
I had a 2007 CBR1000RR and our bikes (CB1000R) have the same motor and I had all the service work done and it always ran great...Yes, it's costly but IMHO it's worth it to get the motor tweaked and in top shape.....The one thing I have noticed about both bikes is that I can smell antifreeze sometimes in traffic like it's leaking out an overflow.......
 
#14 ·
That's one of the main reasons I bought the CB1000R. I had an 07 CBR1000RR and loved it, that bike never gave me issues. When it got up there in miles, I found a used 06 CB1000RR (same as 07) because I didn't want the new CBR. I'm sure the new one was great, I just really liked the 06/07's. Neither of mine gave me any problems at all. I doubt my CB ever will either.
 
#16 ·
get 'em checked at 16 or 24k miles - just for peace of mind - there's a difference between 'never checked but my bike never blew up (so they must have been ok ' and 'physically checked them and no adjustment needed' ... each bike is different and has been ridden / serviced differently - there's always a chance of an out of tolerance valve .....a good independent shop will set a good price for you...
 
#24 · (Edited)
Old thread....but what the f*ck.
As a motor ages, the constant action of the valves slamming down in their seats drives the hardened valve seal into the head.
In doing so, the valve clearances gradually disappear.
The tighter they get, the quieter the top end of the motor becomes.
Eventually, the valves (usually the exhausts) allow hot gasses to pass resulting in a loss of compression, and the creation of hot spots on the edges of the valve seats. This heat is enough to melt the valve seat AND the seal in the head.
By the time the motor fails a compression test, the damage is usually done.
If you're lucky a quick regrind and lap might fix it
But if not, then it's big money to fix. Usually a new head and valves.
It's pretty dumb not to bother checking every now and again.
It's just a 1hr job.
 
#25 ·
the manual says 'inspect' at 16 k miles / 25k kms. on my 2012, I did so, at that mileage. all were in spec. I did so again at 60k kms - still OK. I did so again at 90k kms - one exhaust valve was at 0.25 and was brought back to 0.30 - the rest were still in spec ( 0.32 plus/minus 0.03). all intake valves were in spec ( 0.16 plus/minus 0.03).
this is a long-running engine with heaps of 'history', which virtually never causes trouble. however, given the expensive consequences of valve train problems, I was happy enough to make the investment.
and Tifa, while it might only be an hour to do the check, if you're already 'into' the bike for other maintenance, it's waaay more than that to pull the cams to get at the buckets to make any adjustments! but of course, if adjustment is needed, so be it...
 
#26 ·
As others have said......The rattle will disappear not increase with a bucket and shim design valve train. The old screw and lock nut wore slacker but obviously that's not relevant to this bike.

Just to put this into perspective;
I went on a Yamaha FZ750 (20 valve head (4cyl 5 valves)) tot he 1994 Manx GP. The bike ran great and had full power (140mph+ two up). Not long after coming back it wouldn't start on the button once used. First thing on a morning it cranked and fired up spot on but then failed to fire at a petrol stop say 10 mile down the road. It would bump off and run fine for the rest of the day UNLESS you tried to do a hot start. Various things were tried and it was only when a hot compression test was done did it become apparent what the issue was.

Luckily no long term damage was done and re-shimming sorted it out.
 
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